This article is part of a series we are running ahead of the Mada Marketplace event to feature the participating vendors.

In reinventing heritage and authentic artistry as a modern design trend, the talents behind Egyptian fashion brands have been prompted to explore their roots as a means of sourcing inspiration.

As a result, the treasures of the past are brought forth with a twist of both modernity and functionality. More than a passing fad, the trend has sustained for several years now, and in its growth it has become more appealing to a wider base of consumers.

Amidst this momentum, established as well as up-and-coming brands are encouraged to dig even deeper into the past, explore their surroundings with more consciousness and preserve what may be fading crafts and techniques, all while finding more innovative means of incorporating these elements into Egypt’s increasingly dynamic fashion scene.  

What may be most significant are the attempts to support and reinvigorate communities of artisans that over the years were crushed in the fast-paced rush of a globalized retail industry. While preserving the traditional, some brands are also keen on passing on these skills and stories to a new generation of designers in hopes of expanding the local industry.

Some of these brands, which will be showcasing their work at the Mada Marketplace this Saturday, include Jozee Boutique, GebRaa, Fair Trade Egypt, The Design Studio by Azza Fahmy, Aidy and Black Sheep Accessories.

While some of these brands’ resonance has gone international, others have had an undeniable impact on smaller, once forgotten communities, or have found interesting ways of sourcing material for their products. But what they share is an idea that success lies in more than a mass manufacturing line — instead, it is in staying true to what makes anything unique: its origins.

The Design Studio by Azza Fahmy

Over the years, the name Azza Fahmy has become synonymous with a true success story of an Egyptian jewelry designer’s commitment to being authentic and fusing her heritage into her work, then taking it all to the global stage.

After more than 45 years in the business, hearing the brand’s name immediately conjures images of intricate necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings adorned with ceremonial scenes from Pharaonic temples, intertwined with Arabic calligraphy or wrapped in the profound lyrics of an Oum Kalthoum song.

In an attempt to pass on her knowledge and skills, as well as those of her daughters, to a new generation, in 2012 Azza Fahmy created The Design Studio in association with Alchimia School of Contemporary Jewelry in Italy, a well-established beacon of art and authenticity.

The idea stems from an educational initiative named Nubre, or “design” in Nubian, referring to a series of workshops Azza Fahmy held in Aswan in collaboration with the European Union. After a successful series of workshops in Upper Egypt, the idea for The Design Studio by Azza Fahmy (DSAF) was born.

The vision is for students to “become part of Azza Fahmy’s contribution to the arts industry in Egypt,” as well as to create a more secure space and path for jewelry designs and entrepreneurship to flourish.

DSAF’s basic academic track offers a 3-year program in traditional silversmith techniques and contemporary jewelry design, skills that Azza Fahmy herself learned more than 30 years ago in a small workshop in old Cairo. Part-time options are also available mostly in the technical aspects of the process.

Jozee Boutique

The brainchild of designers Josline el-Kholy and Ezzeddin Mokhtar, Jozee Boutique sees itself as a bridge between modernity and authenticity. The fashion line and e-commerce platform is an amalgamation of ethnic Egyptian handmade products.

“Our garments reflect various flairs or flavors from many places around the country,” says Mokhtar, adopting various embroidery and design techniques from governorates around Egypt, such as scarves and shawls from the Sohag city of Akhmim, handmade paintings and handbags inspired by Bedouin stitching.

Kholy adds that the line is meant to be ethnic, chic and traditional. “We wanted to create something suitable for most of us, something you can wear anytime, anywhere,” she says.

Even the very fabrics used for the clothing line have stories. “We source handmade fabrics from Nagaa Hammady, Akhmim and many other governorates,” says the young designer, adding that these authentic fabrics accentuate the beauty of the embroidery.

Among the items displayed on the website are the Akhmim thread paintings produced by the women of Sohag, where hand-woven paintings depict colorful scenes. Prices for the art pieces range between LE1,000 and LE2,500.

The Bedouin stitched handbags are one of the main successes of this website. Prices for the bags range between LE400-800.

Jozee Boutique manages to balance originality, practicality and style.

The online e-commerce platform, which delivers locally and internationally, hosts other clothing brands, wall art, jewelry and home décor. “We are currently working on bringing on more brands,” adds the co-founder.

GebRaa

GebRaa started operations in 2012 with the aim of helping marginalized Egyptian artisans find new markets for their threatened crafts.

The organization supports product development to match the needs of local and international customers, striving for a unique and authentic production process.

“We are the first worldwide to use palm tree wood,” says Rania Seddik, the founder of GebRaa. The organization later introduced the wood to other manufacturers.

GebRaa is mainly interested in preserving and reviving two main ancient Egyptian handcrafts: tent-making, and woodwork with mother of pearl ornaments. “Both handcrafts are dying, and the products are not cheap,” explains Seddik, adding that using palm tree wood decreases deforestation and helps the recycling of agricultural waste.    

GebRaa also provides training to artisans. “We are helping these handcraft communities socially, culturally and economically,” she asserts. GebRaa is also working on an embroidery line by women from Sohag and St. Catherine in Sinai.

“People stay in their original communities, and we help them produce and sell their products,” concludes Seddik, mostly using resources with low environmental footprint.

Aidy

Aidy is all about glassware and pottery, two deeply Egyptian lines of work that are well on their way to disappearing as crafts. The handmade brand offers home accessories like tea pots, glasses, vases and plant pots that are quirky, wry and vibrant.

Using glass, pottery and alabaster, Aidy reinvents blown glass with new shapes, colors and functionalities. One of their signature products is a wooden “welcome” sign adorned with a small glass vase where flowers or plant can be placed, an innovative product to welcome guests at your doorstep.

Their colorful curvature and very Egyptian tea pots make lovely décor pieces, though they may prove challenging for serving tea.

Fair Trade

Each design has a story at Fair Trade Egypt, which empowers local communities by offering disadvantaged artisans marketing and support services. The organization applies fair trade principles as a socially and culturally responsible business practice, and currently carries more than 1,000 products.

They also use Akhmim fabrics, especially for their lines of linens and bedding. The small city in Sohag is known for its high quality cotton and linen fabrics, in addition to perfecting embroidery skills.

Fair Trade Egypt, an organization established in 1998, brings the flavors and skills from the governorates to the capital, offering structured guidance on product development and marketing.

Their product range is vast, including clothing, home decor, jewelry, linens and rugs, stationary and toys.

Their hand-woven bed linens are the best in town, wonderfully designed and manufactured with purely organic materials. Fair Trade products are known for unique designs patterns and impeccable finishing, something that is a rarity in shopping experiences.

Black Sheep Accessories

Inspired by the sea and a love for horses, designer Zeina Hosni merges her unique skills and quirky tastes to bring to the market a product that almost smells like the Mediterranean coast of Alexandria.

Black Sheep Accessories are effortlessly funky and casual.

According to its website, the brand maintains “a fresh and creative outlook” based on the inspiration of the head designer, Hosni, who is constantly incorporating the liveliness of the sea into her creations.

Black Sheep also stems from the same base of local artistry: a love for copper, a metal historically used in jewelry design and home utensils.

Black Sheep Accessories also mixes thread with beads in many of its designs, a common design attribute inspired by the work of Upper Egypt and Nubia.   

The brand exhibits a collection of bracelets rings and key chains for both genders using thread, beads, copper and other materials. My favorite piece is the staffa bracelet, which mixes thread and copper in a minimalist yet chic and unique design that could easily complement most outfits.

Read more about why Mada Masr is organizing a marketplace event here.